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SADDLE ATTRIBUTES
& PROPER OWNER OUTLOOK:
Understanding if your horses
structure provides a good rider base. Best indicator is the
natural bareback feel of your horse under secure conditions.
Understanding if the saddle size
allows for enough space for your specific body structure.
Break-in time is required to allow
foam compression due to horse safety built into the design.
Settling into a safer ride feel will require understanding that the
protective foam requires break-in.
Break-in can be accomplished with
use and saddle pre-stretching -or- with use of molding pressures (feed
bag?) over an english saddle.
Initial Saddle girthing (assuming a
mid-front (neutral) girth ring position) will wrap girth tensions over
the mid-front (2 strap loops per ring = 66% of total girth tension) and
also wrap tensions over the mid-rear (single loop per ring = 33% of
girth tension). Proper girth ring positioning will balance the
girth tensions from side to side over top your horse. Adjusting
the girth rings backward will distribute more girth tension into the
rear of the saddle.
Once you have determined the best
girth ring location and are determined to keep the saddle, you may want
to punch tiny holes in the right side V portion of the straps (just
above the girth ring) and run a strong strand of leather or nylon string
through the straps and around the ring to secure the girth ring in
place. We are not responsible any damages done to v-girth straps
and you may even think farther ahead to replace the v-girth straps with
your own adjustable length straps (shortened english leathers with a
flat dressage style buckle would be ideal).
Remember that our girth tension is
more of a constant - and now we add the stirrup and seated pressures
which compress the foam panels from the center...
Initial Saddle girthing is likely to
produce a seated bubbling effect from the fore and aft girth
tensions. The bubble effect is best removed by alternating your
posting and seated pressures to compress the center panels between the
girth compression tensions. Your own posted and sitting weight
should be much greater than the average required 22 lbs of girth tension
per saddle side - resulting in the compression of the saddle in the
center (directly underneath you). Center compression time will
depend on your own weight and how aggressively you work to compress the
center panels. Remember not to be too impatiently forceful or
aggressive so as to injure your buddy.
You might realize here, the long
term potential benefits of the girth tensions causing rise to the saddle
center - offering more protection from your stirrup and seated pressures
- if you can picture these components (in the back of the mind) as you
ride.
A Perspective for you, as the
horse... With an owner monkey strapped over your own back, you
would feel much better foam in between they and you -and- hope that
monkey has the decency to break in the foam gracefully, so your back
could adjust with the use. Otherwise, you might end up stuck back under
the old rigid frame backpack model again, with that monkey on top, to
where your back discomfort or injury is at much greater risk. Of
course a child monkey has nowhere near the same impact as a full blown
owner monkey.
...
our perspective is that light yet secure thigh contact, with the outlook
of a bird on a perch, leaning into the breeze, is the healthiest
perspective to aspire to when riding your horse with this saddle Skip
ahead to: Best saddle Ride Position
... CAVEAT
(for the nosey PhDs)
[apologies here to our horse
enthusiasts]
- this extra FAQ link originates from employment under
ownership of medical research monkeys... [
State of YOUR health care union (Dysfunction) ]
(back to previous: "as
the horse") Horse temperament under such a less rigid
saddle will factor into your safety. If your horse is holding a
grudge or prone to spooking or breaking, you may end up facing an
injurious situation. Dangling stirrups are one example of
unforeseen aggravation, which can result in a dangerous mounting
situation. Every factor of your horse understood, will contribute
to your own long term safety. Ignorance of the obvious, can lead
to huge problems for any owners.
What kind of horse
are these built for?
This saddle could work for most any
horse - best to pre-check your leg base support when bareback. The
experience for both the horse and rider depends on how well you match up
naturally. A strong, medium width base just behind the withers
(good hollows) is desirable. Consider how your leg angles factor
into base support. Until the saddle foam compresses, your center
of gravity will be higher. The goal is to have a supporting saddle
that serves as a custom adapted interface for you both after break-in.
Is it good for a
very strong horse?
This saddle should work fine on well
behaved strong healthy horses. You should consider that your horse
may feel a large amount of freedom. You should exhibit caution and
patience (during an adjustment period) for your safety and to assure
your horses back adjusts properly.
If you have a strong, temperamental
horse that remains head strong and uncooperative in this saddle, a
tighter girth tension may make you feel safer, but could be damaging to
your horse in the long run. This would be a sign that your horse
still has other issues to be resolved. Check the rigging and
consider consulting a veterinarian or trainer.
Is it good for a
horse with a back problem?
This saddle could be good for a
horse with back problems, but you should understand the back
problem. Existing weaknesses could be made worse or
better. How you can distribute your own weight onto your horse is
of most importance. Though total weight is lower, this saddle
concentrates your weight over a more limited area of the horse as
compared to a treed saddle. You need to understand the nature of
your horses weaknesses and whether this saddle can be placed so as to
not complicate the problem or used after the required recovery time.
Owners of other Treeless Saddle
brands who have spent too much time riding on their seat bones causes
white hair patches with very thin padded saddles. Applying4 our
ride technique can eliminate this constant seat bone poundin1g to their
horse.
Can I ride without
the stirrups?
Yes - and if you have never ridden
bareback much, it would be advised so that you can understand how to use
your upper legs to support your frame in good balance (more
below). Over dependency on the stirrups results in a need for
higher girth tensions.
Can this saddle be
used over a protruding spine?
The underside panels are built with
a channel to fit over your horses spine and provide spinal pressure
relief. In fact, normal protrusion works with the panels to keep
the saddle centered and from slippage at lower girth tensions. The
flatter or more rounded your horses back is, the more girth tension will
be required.
Are large, strong
withers a problem?
A strong withers area is best.
It provides a good contact area for the saddle and in turn provides good
rider contact with the horse. Again the panels are built for the
front end to fit over the back part of most any size withers and a
strong wither area can be helpful in keeping this saddle centered on the
back with lower girth tensions. Extremely fast rising withers may
be a concern if the saddles front edge cannot conform for a severe
rise. Steep withers may require an additional riser pad.
Where is the
Pommel?
The typical pommel is good as a
forward anchor point on a treed saddle and to distribute rider
weight. It also causes major fitting problems, as it's width and
angle must be precise.
This saddle distributes no rider
weight and very little girth tension over this sometimes sensitive and
aggravated area. There are no pommel width fitting problems with
this saddle.
The only drawback to having no
pommel is that this rigid part of a saddle is helpful in preventing
slippage during mounting.
What is a good
girth tension?
Girth tension can be higher than a normal bareback pad
since there are panels built underneath the seat pad. Panels
should begin to compress as you increase the girth tension.
This also depends on how much
attention each rider can put into their own weight control while riding
-and- whether you expect to do a standing or assisted mount. The
better a rider can use their legs to maintain side to side balance, the
less the dependency on the stirrups, resulting in lower required girth
tension.
How wide is the
seat?
The seat width you experience
depends on the width of your horses back. The saddle will conform
to the shape of your horse. We prefer a forward position right
behind the withers, so you can leg hug your horse in the hollows.
Is there a best
ride position in this saddle?
An attentive, controlled, slightly
forward and balanced frame with your weight supported primarily by your
under thighs with light stirrup pressure. Balance should be
achieved with proper leg use and not with the stirrups. This will
place you in the best possible contact position with your horse.
For more detail - see our "Recommended Technique" below.
Optional - periodically increase
your stirrup pressure or do light, periodic posting to redistribute your
weight, away from your legs and across the saddle panels. Posting
frequency and durations should be increased gradually and monitored for
their effects on your horse.
* Recommended "Leg
Grip" Technique: anchors your body weight around your
horse and eliminates a great deal of leg & hip stress.
Short version:
-
Place balls of feet in light, springy contact with
stirrups
-
Lower the hamstrings into ride
position
-
Maintain knees and ankles in
line with legs - no ligament twisting
-
Draw stirrups / toes under knees
maintaining light stirrup pressure
-
Transfer strength from under
thighs up into front abdomen
-
Stretch the abdomen down at bottom - direct weight
into thighs
-
Stretch abdomen upward - support ribs & upper
body weight
-
Let weight transfer stress free
through the hip region - use your hips to couple the front abdomen
to back of leg muscles - keeping your back arch relaxed
-
Optionally squeeze the gluts to
raise the seat bones - bouncing on seat bones will flex your horses
spine - make transitions smooth
-
Glut squeeze will also transfer
more stable strength into your thighs and usually will relieve even
more stress from the back
-
From here rise gently (with
control) into post as desired, but keep thighs contacting the saddle
-
Be ready to lower weight
straight back down in event of any unexpected maneuvers from your
horse
Longer Version:
Once mounted, place knees slightly
out to sides of saddle (and just above saddle) - keeping your kneecaps
in line with the thighs. Lower your legs down into ride position
against the saddle. This should result in the inner thighs
(hamstrings - just above the knees) rolling inward - stay relaxed
here. This may feel odd at first, but the result is that more of
your hamstrings are in contact with the saddle which feels great riding
-AND- your hamstrings will stay more relaxed! If you squeeze down
with your legs (think scissors grip here), your weight is directed
firmly, down and around your horse, and this lifts your hip weight off
the seat so you are free to round your hips and stretch your back and
stay looser and more relaxed. Alternate your forward lean
and hip rotation to stretch your lower back. This also transfers
your center of gravity into the legs and provides a very stable
base. You can easily transfer this base strength up through your
hips, into the front torso. This is much easier than pinching your
knees inward like tweezers which will also aggravate your outer hips.
* Recommended
Fender/Stirrup Length & Use: Fender length should be just
long enough for a couple inches of clearance over the saddle when
raised/posting on the stirrups - with fenders straight down and centered
front to back. Allows rising straight up and down in the seat.
When seated, swing fenders slightly
forward, with heels lowered and calves stretching ! - pushing the front
lower legs into the fenders. Push legs gently into fenders and
lean torso gently forward into the fender resistance, directing your
entire center of gravity into the thighs. Maintain a firm grip
with the back of thighs as you lean into a good upper center of gravity
over your leg base. This helps stretch your entire leg
length (including the usually ignored calves and quadriceps) for good
overall leg circulation, as you establish a firm, yet comfortable base
contact with the saddle. Now, alternate with the firm grip... to
find the best upper body lean to maintain your upper center of gravity
over your base ...
For firmest leg gripping strength,
release your knees and draw your heels back/down smoothly while seated
and rotate the toes downward to a position (almost) below your
hips. May need to keep toes ahead of hips with more speed and
forward lean. This bent knee
position can be alternated with calve stretches to keep the circulation
going. Ankle rotation will provide continuous footrest
feedback into the toes. With calves loose and toes/ankles lightly
loaded into stirrups, pull down with the back thighs around your
horse. An easy position to pop straight up into a posting position
when proper toe connection is maintained in stirrup footrest.
Reverse from a post to lower yourself straight down into this
position. Plopping down is not advised to re-establish a firm
connection!
Posting & handling fear of the
tumbling dismount: never give up your upper leg contact in a post,
unless you are positive your horse is in a totally predictable run,
completely without possibility of distraction. Anyone, that cannot
understand this point will be shopping for a much fancier saddle (for
their perfect horse) or they would have no fear of the tumbling
dismount.
To learn any skill, you have do the
work correctly. If you are uncertain of balance into a post - You
can practice a transition into a stand or post by using more lower leg
squeeze (think toes down if needed to maintain light stirrup
contact. Draw your feet inward & not up underneath !), until
you can sense (from the lifting effect) that a smooth, balanced
transition to liftoff is attainable.
As your horse picks up speed, you
will need to lean into the momentum to keep you upper body center of
gravity, centered over your lower base support. In a gallop you
would be leaning into the wind - which is another good indicator of
required body lean, if you can handle this much awareness. Some
might prefer the simpler: "the rush of the wind in the birds face,
tells that bird what attitude is required to maintain their balance thru
flight". Or "aptitude". Anyway, you might
understand about here, that riding this saddle on a spirited horse could
result in giving your tummy a very good workout - if your approach is
muscularly balanced.
To rise in stirrups while galloping,
you would need to transfer your weight into the stirrups and re-center
your upper body weight (lean) in one motion. Learning all the
motions, while maintaining your balance through transitions, is the
hardest part of riding and this saddle leaves you no choice, but to
learn them well. It can be a great tool for getting completely in
tune with your horse.
Is there a bad
ride position in this saddle?
A lackadaisical, inattentive posture
means you may not be balanced and ready for the unexpected. It
also means that you might get caught off guard, panic and be so heavily
dependant on the stirrups, that the saddle slips from extreme, sudden
forces.
Does this saddle
require break-in?
The saddle will be flexible and
conform more and more to you and your horse over time.
Additional use of your thigh muscles
to maintain a good riding posture in this saddle may require a temporary
adjustment of your ride schedule.
* Break-in TIP: You can
pre-form your saddle's underside panels for a pronounced curve behind
the withers as follows: Place the saddle over an English Saddle;
then place a protective layer (thick blanket or saddle pad) over the
saddle; then place a smooth, heavy weighted sack (food/feed/seed,
etc) or loaded saddle bags carefully over the top to press the
treeless saddle panels into the desired shape. Weight over the top
does the pressing and keeps the treeless side flaps in an acceptable
rider shape. May take a couple days to a week depending on model,
temperatures and desired curve.
What is the ride
like?
Similar to using a Bareback Pad
except you have stirrups and the is a handle in front to hold onto as
you like. Seat slippage is not noticeable on the suede. Some
people prefer the smooth feel of the leather, so we have that option.
How is the ride
comfort?
Comfort is extremely good with our
newer, fluffier side flaps. The saddle will conform in whatever
way it is used and should help bring you closer together over time.
How is the ride
'close' to the horse?
There is no tree or formed seat -
only foam - between you and your horse. The feel is not as close
as a pure bareback pad for horse safety - because there are panels and a
harness layer under the seat pad to protect your horse from stirrup use
and girthing pressures. As this saddle breaks in from your weight
and conforms to your horse, you should be able to feel more and more in
tune with them.
Will it help a
rider with moderate back pain?
Back relief is possible, if you can
use the above recommended leg contact technique to grip firmly with your
leg undersides. This can let you round your hips, reducing back
and hip pain. If this does not help you need to read the next
question.
Is it safe for a
rider with severe back pain?
Severe back pain will probably
require a decent length of recovery to allow inflammation to
subside. Jarring an inflamed back will only result in
retightening, pain and possibly spasms. We do not recommend riding
any saddle in this condition.
Recovery time is up to your
back. It will tell you when it is time to ride again. In the
mean time you can try to get it flexible with stretching and mild hip
rotations. The small of the back has the tightest curve and most
weight supported during upright activity - even as one sits and
reads.
Any time you smoothly transfer your
muscular power from the back of your thighs into the front of your
abdomen, you can float your hip rotation and relieve your back from the
residual stresses stored in your lower back.
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